How To Get Nails Out Of Wood With No Head
Sometimes you demand to remove the nails holding a piece of woods rather than just pulling the whole thing off in one violent go. Getting nails out beginning allows you to carefully remove a whole slice of wood, without damaging any surrounding planks.
Information technology'due south best to just show yous with an example, I think. This forenoon I had to remove the bottom few rows of some 'double lap' or shiplap blazon cladding because it was by its best. Just I wasn't taking it all off so I had to be careful not to damage the thin, fragile bottom edge of the last lath I was leaving in identify.
If I but put a bar behind the cladding and wrenched outwards, it would break off the lower tongue and then I'd need to remove that ane too. That could go on right to the tiptop lol!
There are several ways to avert breaking stuff when removing nailed timber (this works to remove stripped screw heads as well). Here are nine ways I could think of…
Nine ways to get your nails out
Getting nails out the easy ways outset…
Method 1: Already exposed nail heads
This method is relevant if the Gods of DIY are smiling on you. Sometimes the weather and seasonal expansion and contraction causes nails to inch their fashion out over the years. Making it like shooting fish in a barrel to remove the nails and lift out the slice. On my little task one or two were already sticking out a little and then I hooked the pry bar or hook hammer behind them and pulled them out (this is mutual on decades former wood which has moved around over the years).
Method Ii: Lever a little
I removed some nails by placing the bar behind the cladding and pulling information technology forrard just enough to pull the nail caput out a little. When I permit go of the bar, the forest goes back and information technology leaves the nail sticking out but enough for me to pull it out. Be careful though, pull information technology too far and you'll risk breaking the same tongue.
If the nail goes dorsum in with the wood, endeavour levering the wood out equally earlier and so slide something up the dorsum of the wood to hit the nail (on the part behind the forest). A bolster or the claw from your hammer works well for this. Hitting the shank of the nail puts a kink in information technology and frequently stops the nail going back in when you release the bar pressure.
Then there were some nails at the top of the cladding, next to the piece I was leaving in identify. Putting the bar under the bottom edge didn't move these nails at all. Time to go a niggling more than aggressive.
Getting stubborn nails out…
Method Iii: Forest chisel
I use my 'No. two' chisel (don't utilise your best one, you'll flake the edge for sure) to chisel or intermission out a shallow fleck next to the nail caput, hammer in the chisel nearly an inch or 25mm to the side of the boom, towards the smash, go once above the nail and once below the blast.
Now you can see the nail caput in the wood. Have your pry bar (I like thin, apartment confined) and hammer the "V" into the forest around the boom. I hope the pics make this clear. I really need to get into video lol!
Method 4: Rotten wood/ straight in
Sometimes y'all don't fifty-fifty need the woods chisel mentioned to a higher place. The woods is so soft around the nail that you tin can drive the wrecking bar directly into the woods around the nail similar this…
Method 5: The smash punch
This method is only suitable for the brave and stout of center because it'south real easy to hurt yourself. Y'all'll need a grip of steel and nerves to match!
Using a heavy smash dial, simply bulldoze the nail into the board and keep going until information technology'south all the way through to the framing. I said information technology was savage! Obviously, the larger the head on the smash, the harder this method is going to be.
Method Six: Special hand tools
For those taking this seriously or those who just love new tools, there are of course special tools fabricated just for grabbing nails and pulling them out.
Used a lot in the reclaimed forest furniture business these are useful if you need to remove nails on a regular footing.
Pry bars designed to dig in around the nail head
These bars practice the job of the chisel and pry bar I talked about above, all in ane action. Click the image to see them on amazon (I get a tiny committee besides!). Just hammer the point of the bar into the wood around the nail head.
Tool designed to catch the nail head
These are an old design and are very skilful at getting nails out. They work all-time on horizontal surfaces, but with a bit of practice it'due south possible to utilise them anywhere (click the paradigm to come across them on amazon and support this site).
Method 7: Multisaws
Some other special tool. Using a Fein type multi saw you can run the small saw bract effectually each boom or using the larger blade run beyond the elevation edge of the last board you desire to remove and cut the tongue off which disappears nether the upper board/first lath y'all want to keep.
What to do if you must save the workpiece
Someone just asked me what to exercise if you absolutely must save the wood (special profiles or unavailability etc.). It is possible with a tiny scrap of extra work. At that place are a couple of means actually, and both require little work to do on the workpiece before it's fix to refit.
Method Eight: The homemade core drill
Outset catch yourself a sparse metal pipe, with an internal bore but bigger than the nail head. Take your hacksaw and saw a few shallow cuts into the end of the metal pipe, angle a bit if you like. Imagine you're trying to cut some 'teeth' into the terminate of the pipage. You tin even twist the 'teeth' slightly with needle nose pliers etc.
The teeth don't need to be vivid, but good enough to chew the wood out around the nail shank.
Position your make new 'hole saw' over the nail head at a slight angle, fire upwardly the drill and bear on the edge of the hole saw onto the wood just in front of the nail or screw yous want to remove. Concur the drill firmly to stop it pulling away.
Over again, be careful when you start upward the drill and touch the workpiece considering it will attempt to spring around. Core drills normally have a center guide drill bit you encounter.
Once started, tilt the drill bit upwards till it's in line with the nail and drill around the boom head and through the forest until you lot feel it exit the back (at that place is oftentimes a tiny jump as it goes through the back and hits the timber backside). Here is a rough video of a mock up I did to demonstrate…
Method Nine: Concatenation drilling
Almost exactly as higher up in method 8, but without the metal pipe. Utilise a small drill flake (ane/8" or 3mm) and drill a series of tightly spaced holes around the edge of the nail head. Proceed going around and around using the drill bit as a kind of 'milling' tool to get equally much wood fibre out from around the boom shank as possible. Be careful and spotter for the drill fleck snagging on the blast shank every bit you drill.
Repairing impairment later getting nails out with method eight and ix
Okay, and so you at present accept your wood off the framing, largely intact. Now what to do with the gurdy great large holes in it?
The easiest way is to drill a further, bigger hole through the impairment and gum a piece of dowel into it. Saw, airplane, chisel or sand downwardly the excess one time the glue has stale.
On high end work, you'll need a plug cutter to cutting and gum a matching plug to get into said pigsty. This has the benefit of keeping the wood grain all going in the correct direction. If the workpiece is thick enough, yous tin cut a plug from the dorsum of information technology, this way the grain matches exactly.
Okay, in conclusion
Repeat which ever method works for y'all as necessary to get your nails out. Some are crude methods for sure, simply they are all quick and they guarantee the violence goes into the wood you don't want and thus protects the pieces you are keeping.
Getting nails out first is a much safer mode of dismantling smaller, or delicate jobs (come across motion-picture show below). Going at stuff hammer and tongs creates damage which you so need to repair every bit well. Plus the resulting waste matter wood is already de-nailed and safe.
I hope you find these authentic job examples useful. I also hope you can take the example and apply the tips to a job y'all might be thinking near.
Happy hammering 🙂
Okay, that's all. Let me know in the comments if I've forgotten something (it happens lol!).
Stay well
Ian
All round handy bloke, humanitarian, and mad scribbler.
Moved around a bit, from i side of the planet to the other, but now settled close to the embankment in Norway.
Source: https://handycrowd.com/getting-nails-out-even-when-they-are-buried/
Posted by: lewisfathish.blogspot.com
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